Lash and brow tint with a lift: order and precautions

Course: Lash lift and brow lamination course from A to Z · Module 6 of 8

Plenty of clients book a lash lift or brow lamination “with tint”, and it makes sense: lashes and brow hairs look more defined without mascara or pencil. But combining a lash and brow tint with a lift or lamination means knowing when to tint, for how long and with what precautions, because freshly treated hair doesn’t behave like untreated hair.

This module covers what a lash tint is from a regulatory point of view, when you should not tint, where the tint usually goes in each service, and why tint time is shortened after a perm.

Module objectives

Understand what an oxidative lash tint is and what EU rules require.
Recognise when tinting should not go ahead.
Know the usual order of tinting within a lash lift and within brow lamination.
Understand why tint develops faster after a lift or lamination, and how to adjust the time using manufacturer guidance.
Apply and remove tint while protecting the eye and skin.

What a lash tint is, and what the rules say

Professional lash and brow tints are usually oxidative dyes: a cream or gel colour mixed with a developer (hydrogen peroxide in liquid or cream form) just before use. Mixing ratios are brand-specific. RefectoCil, for instance, says to mix 2 cm of colour with 10 drops of its liquid oxidant, while InLei’s Lash Filler protocol uses a 1.5% (5 vol) developer cream.

In the European Union, Regulation (EU) 1197/2013 amended Annex III of the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 to allow oxidative dye substances in eyelash colouring products, for professional use only. Its recitals explain that the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) found these dyes can be used safely on lashes by professionals, and that up to 2% hydrogen peroxide is safe in eyelash products; the regulation sets that 2% maximum (present or released). Restricting them to professionals was a response to the risks of self-application.

The same regulation requires lash tint labels to carry warnings along these lines (summarised):

For professional use only. This product can cause severe allergic reactions. Read and follow instructions.
Not intended for use on people under 16.
Temporary “black henna” tattoos may increase the risk of allergy.
Lashes must not be coloured if the person has a rash on the face or a sensitive, irritated or damaged scalp; has had any reaction after colouring hair or lashes; or has reacted to a temporary “black henna” tattoo.
Rinse eyes immediately if the product gets into them. For products containing phenylenediamines: wear suitable gloves.

Outside the EU the rules differ. In the United States, for example, the FDA warns that permanent eyelash and eyebrow tints and dyes have been known to cause serious eye injuries, including blindness, and restricts which colour additives may be used. Wherever you work, your tint’s label and leaflet are the reference for mixing ratio, timing and specific warnings.

Safety: when not to tint

Tint adds another potential allergen to the service. p-Phenylenediamine (PPD), found in many oxidative dyes, is a known sensitiser. The NHS explains that it can irritate the skin or cause allergic reactions, that a past black henna tattoo raises the risk, and that symptoms can take up to 72 hours to appear. Aumond and Bitton’s 2018 review of the eyelash follicle also names PPD in tints as a sensitiser that can cause contact dermatitis.

Real cases are documented. A 2024 report describes a 21-year-old woman with swelling and redness around both eyes starting three days after a PPD lash tint at a beauty salon. A British Journal of Dermatology abstract describes periocular dermatitis after a lash lift and tint in a client sensitised at once to PPD (tint), thioglycolates (lift lotion) and (meth)acrylates (adhesives); she had previously reacted to a black henna tattoo. In other words, a combined service exposes the client to several possible allergens at the same time.

Don’t tint, and discuss postponing the service, when:

Any of the label situations above applies (rash, previous dye reaction, black henna) or the client is under 16.
There has been no patch test with the lead time the manufacturer specifies, or it produced a reaction. Sources vary: RefectoCil recommends testing 48 hours before; London Brow Company, 72 hours before. A negative result does not guarantee there will be no reaction.
There is irritation, infection or any problem with the eye or lid (see module 4).
The lashes or brow hairs look damaged after the lift or lamination.

If after the appointment the client has swelling, intense itching, pain or increasing redness, she should see a healthcare professional.

Why tint develops faster after a lift or lamination

Perm and setting lotions open the hair cuticle. Elleebana explains that this is why tint applied straight after lamination processes faster than standard timings suggest, and can end up too dark or damage the hair if you don’t watch it.

Some manufacturers turn this into a specific adjustment. RefectoCil’s instructions, as reproduced by stockists, give 10 minutes on lashes normally, but say to cut lash time to 2 minutes if its lash perm has been used beforehand. That is one brand’s guidance; for any other tint, look for the adjustment in its own leaflet or ask the manufacturer.

Lash and brow tint with a lift: where it goes for lashes

In the manufacturer protocols reviewed, tint goes on after the setting lotion (step 2), while the lashes are still on the shield, and before the nourishing step:

Lotion 1 (perm), then removal.
Lotion 2 (setting). While it processes, InLei says to mix the tint and let it rest for a few minutes.
Remove the setting lotion.
Tint the lashes while they are still on the shield. InLei applies a thin first layer, then more until every lash is covered; RefectoCil’s lift instructions also say to tint while the lashes are on the pad.
Remove the tint with a cotton bud once the manufacturer’s time is up.
Nourishing step, shield removal, and cleaning of tint residue at the roots with a micro brush, as InLei describes.

Tinting on the shield has a practical advantage: the lashes are separated and laid flat, so coverage is even and the product stays away from the surface of the eye. Keep the under-eye pad in place to protect the skin. InLei also notes that the tint may look light when applied and darkens as it develops, so don’t add time “because it isn’t showing yet”.

Where tint goes in brow lamination

For brows, sources agree that tint comes after lamination. Elleebana is direct about it: always tint after the lamination. The Lashbase, Ellisons and London Brow Company protocols follow the same order:

Order	Lash lift	Brow lamination
1	Cleanse, pads, shield, adhesive	Cleanse, optional adhesive, brush into shape
2	Perm lotion	Lifting/perm lotion
3	Setting lotion	Setting/neutralising lotion
4	Tint (lashes still on the shield)	Tint (if wanted)
5	Nourish and remove the shield	Wax as per training (London Brow Company) and nourish

On timing for laminated brows, Elleebana mentions 5 to 10 minutes of processing but stresses close monitoring because it develops faster than usual; RefectoCil’s standard leaflet gives 5–10 minutes for untreated brows. Start at the minimum your manufacturer allows and watch the colour.

Applying the tint step by step

Put on gloves and protect the surrounding skin (under-eye pad for lashes; for brows, some lamination brands suggest a thin barrier of petroleum jelly around the brow).
Mix colour and developer in a clean dish, in the manufacturer’s ratio and only as much as the service needs.
Apply with a disposable brush or micro brush, root to tip, keeping product away from the lid margin.
Time it with a timer, using the reduced post-lift or post-lamination time your manufacturer specifies.
Remove with cotton or a bud as the leaflet directs (RefectoCil says cotton pads and water), without wiping product towards the eye.
Clean any skin staining and residue at the roots before moving on to the nourishing step.

If product gets into the eye, the label instruction is to rinse immediately. If stinging, redness or blurred vision persists afterwards, the client should see a healthcare professional.

Keep disposable brushes and micro brushes from our accessories to hand, and browse the lift and lamination kits you’ll pair with tint in our lamination category.

Common mistakes

Using standard tint time after a lift: the colour goes too dark and hair that has just been chemically processed takes another hit.
Adding minutes because it looks light: tint develops and darkens; stick to the time.
Tinting without a patch test, or ignoring a history of reactions or black henna.
Applying too close to the waterline or wiping towards the eye on removal.
Tinting brows before laminating: the sources reviewed all tint afterwards.
Over-mixing and reusing leftovers, or combining brands without the manufacturer’s say-so.

Module summary

In the EU, oxidative lash tints are professional-use only, with a 2% hydrogen peroxide maximum and mandatory label warnings.
PPD is a known sensitiser, and a combined service involves several possible allergens. Patch test as the manufacturer directs.
Lash lift: tint after the setting lotion, lashes still on the shield, before nourishing.
Brow lamination: tint after lamination and before nourishing.
After a perm, tint develops faster: shorten the time as your manufacturer specifies (RefectoCil, for example, says 2 minutes on lashes after its perm).

Self-assessment

1. At what point in a lash lift do the InLei and RefectoCil protocols apply tint?

After the setting lotion is removed, with the lashes still on the shield, and before the nourishing step.

2. Why is tint time reduced after a lift or lamination?

The lotions open the hair cuticle, so tint penetrates faster. With standard timing the colour can go too dark or the hair can be damaged.

3. A client mentions she reacted to a black henna tattoo years ago. Can you tint her lashes?

No. Under the mandatory EU label warnings, lashes must not be coloured if the person has reacted to a temporary black henna tattoo.

4. Are brows tinted before or after lamination?

After lamination (once the setting lotion is off) and before nourishing, according to Elleebana, Lashbase, Ellisons and London Brow Company.

Sources

Note: this online course is for educational and information purposes only and does not replace hands-on, in-person training with a qualified trainer. Always follow each product manufacturer’s instructions.

Buy the course supplies

All the supplies for this course are available at Lash Canarias:

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