Brow lamination step by step: design, lotions and aftercare

Course: Lash lift and brow lamination course from A to Z · Module 7 of 8

Brow lamination step by step shares its chemistry with the lash lift (a reducing lotion followed by a setting lotion), but almost everything else changes: there’s no shield, the hairs are brushed freely against the skin, the brow design is part of the service, and timings vary even more between brands. This module walks you through the full service, from design to the final nourishing step.

As in module 5, the timings you’ll see are examples published by specific manufacturers. You’ll notice differences of several minutes between brands, which is why your own product’s instructions always take priority.

Module objectives

Assess the brow and agree a realistic design with the client.
Prepare the area: cleansing, skin protection and brushing the hairs into the chosen direction.
Apply the lifting and setting lotions with timings matched to the manufacturer and hair type.
Fit tinting and waxing into the right place in the sequence.
Finish with the nourishing step and set the final shape.

Brow lamination step by step: safety and products first

Brow lamination needs the same consultation and patch test covered in module 4, with the lead time your manufacturer specifies. London Brow Company, for example, patch tests 72 hours before, does not treat anyone under 16 or clients with skin irritation or previous reactions to perming products, and points out that a negative result doesn’t guarantee there will be no reaction.

Two product rules with no exceptions:

Brow lotions are never used on lashes. InLei is categorical about its Brow Lift 1: using it on eyelashes is absolutely forbidden because it can cause serious eye damage.
Don’t mix brands. The same manufacturer warns that combining different brands can lead to unpredictable results. Lift, set and nourish with one system.

You’ll find lamination and lash and brow lift systems in our lamination category. Always check each product’s instructions to see which area its lotions are intended for.

Step 1: assessment and brow design

Lamination sets the hairs in whatever direction you brush them, so the design is decided before any product goes on. Look at density, gaps, hair thickness, natural growth direction and any cowlicks. Ask the client what she’s after: a soft, brushed-up natural look or something bolder.

Three-point brow mapping

A widely used way to place the start, arch and tail is mapping with a ruler, pencil or string, as Maybelline describes it:

Point	Reference line
Start	A vertical line from the outer edge of the nostril, past the inner corner of the eye, up to the brow.
Arch	A diagonal line from the outer edge of the nostril through the centre of the pupil.
Tail	A diagonal line from the outer edge of the nostril past the outer corner of the eye.

This isn’t a technical standard: different guides put the arch at the centre of the pupil or at the edge of the iris. Treat it as a starting point and adapt it to the client’s face and natural brow. The tail is where sources agree most.

Brushing direction

For a natural result, Sencha Skin recommends brushing up and slightly outwards; London Brow Company sets the hairs at a soft angle towards the tail. Brushing everything straight up tends to look more dramatic, so agree it with the client first.

Step 2: preparing the area

Cleanse the brows of make-up, oil and residue. London Brow Company uses an oil-free cleanser; Lashbase uses dedicated cleansing pads. Pat dry.
Protect the skin if the brand recommends it: London Brow Company suggests a thin barrier of petroleum jelly above and below the brow when no adhesive is used, and Sencha Skin suggests petroleum jelly around the edges for sensitive skin.
Apply adhesive (if your system uses it) thinly to one brow, brush the hairs into the agreed direction with a Y-comb, then repeat on the other side. Lashbase and Ellisons work one brow at a time to keep them balanced. Sencha Skin treats it as optional and useful for stubborn hairs.
Check symmetry before you go on: the shape you see now is the shape that will be set.

Step 3: lifting lotion (step 1)

Apply the lotion with a micro brush or applicator so that every hair is covered from root to tip, then remove anything that lands on the skin. How much to use depends on the brand: London Brow Company asks for a thin, even coat; Sencha Skin a generous one. Many brands cover the brows with cling film to hold in heat and speed up processing; Lashbase treats it as optional and says not to use it on damaged hairs. If your instructions don’t mention it, check with the manufacturer before adding it, because it changes the timing.

Timings published by different manufacturers

System	Fine hair	Normal	Coarse/stubborn	Setting (step 2)
London Brow Company (cling film optional)	2–3 min	3–4 min	4–6 min	8 min
Sencha Skin (with cling film)	5–6 min	6–8 min	7–8 min	6–7 / 8–10 / 10–12 min
Lashbase Lifted. (cling film optional)	8–10 min depending on condition and thickness	8–10 min	8–10 min (adjust for coarse hair)	5–7 min
Ellisons (guide, with cling film)	About 8 min	8–10 min	Up to 10 min	About 5–7 min

For fine hair, one brand says 2–3 minutes and another about 8: the clearest possible proof that timings don’t transfer between products. London Brow Company recommends checking the hairs halfway through; build that check into any system. Elleebana also notes that previous chemical treatments (tints, lifts) can mean adjusted timings, so check with your manufacturer.

Remove all of the lotion before moving on. Lashbase and Ellisons use a dry cotton pad; London Brow Company a damp pad, wiping in the direction of growth. Follow your product’s instructions.

Step 4: setting lotion (step 2)

Brush the hairs back into their final position. Sencha Skin does this before applying the setting lotion; London Brow Company also re-sets the hairs halfway through.
Apply the setting lotion over all the hairs and remove the excess from the skin.
Leave it for the full time the manufacturer gives (see the table).
Remove the setting lotion completely before tinting or waxing.

Step 5: tint and wax (optional)

If the client wants tint, it goes on now, after the setting lotion, with closely monitored timing because the hair absorbs faster (see module 6). London Brow Company places waxing after lamination and tinting, as per each professional’s training. The logic is simple: with the hairs already in place you can see the final shape and remove only what falls outside the agreed design.

Step 6: nourish and set the final shape

The final step restores moisture to the hair and leaves the shape brushed into place. Each brand handles it differently:

InLei Brow Bomber 3: applied after tinting or after Brow Lock 2. Comb the brow, apply a little with a brush and leave for 5 minutes, blotting off any excess with a tissue if needed.
Lashbase: step 3 is brushed through with a mascara wand and left on for 12 hours.
London Brow Company: a nourishing serum applied over the whole brow and left to absorb without rinsing.

Brush the final shape with a disposable spoolie from our accessories, check symmetry in the mirror with the client and take photos for her record. Nourishing and setting products are also listed under glue and liquids.

If the client feels intense stinging, strong itching or pain at any point, remove the product as the manufacturer directs and stop. If swelling or redness gets worse, advise her to see a healthcare professional.

Common mistakes

Mistake	Result	How to avoid it
Not agreeing the design first	Hairs set in a direction the client didn’t want	Map and do a trial brush-through before the lotion.
Poor cleansing	Residue interferes with the lotion; patchy result	Oil-free cleanser and thorough drying.
Using another brand’s timings	Frizzy hair or a result that doesn’t hold	Your system’s instructions plus a halfway check.
Adding cling film the brand doesn’t call for	Faster processing than planned	Use it only if the manufacturer includes it, never on damaged hair.
Leaving lotion 1 on before setting	The hair keeps processing	Remove it fully before step 2.
Tinting with standard timing	Colour too dark	Reduced, closely watched timing.
Using brow lotions on lashes	Risk of serious eye damage	Each lotion only on the area it’s made for.

Module summary

Design comes first: whatever you brush is what gets set.
Order: cleanse, protect, adhesive and brush, lotion 1, setting lotion, tint, wax, nourish.
Timings vary widely between brands (from 2–3 to about 8 minutes of lotion 1 for fine hair). Follow your instructions and check halfway.
Cling film speeds processing and is only used if the manufacturer includes it.
Brow lotions are never used on lashes, and brands aren’t mixed.

Self-assessment

1. Why is the design decided before lotion 1 goes on?

Because lamination sets the hairs in the direction they’ve been brushed. Changing it afterwards means putting the hair through another chemical process.

2. What does covering the brows with cling film during lotion 1 do?

It holds in heat and speeds up processing. Use it only if the manufacturer includes it and, according to Lashbase, not on damaged hair.

3. When does London Brow Company wax the brows?

After lamination and tinting, as per the professional’s training.

4. You have some brow lotion left and a client wants a lash lift. Can you use it?

No. Manufacturers such as InLei expressly forbid using brow lotions on lashes because of the risk of serious eye damage. Use only products made for lashes.

Sources

Note: this online course is for educational and information purposes only and does not replace hands-on, in-person training with a qualified trainer. Always follow each product manufacturer’s instructions.

Buy the course supplies

All the supplies for this course are available at Lash Canarias:

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