Lash lift step by step: shields, lotions and timings

Course: Lash lift and brow lamination course from A to Z · Module 5 of 8

This is the most hands-on module of the course: the lash lift step by step. You already know the perm chemistry, the kit and the consultation and safety protocol. Now we put it all together in the order you will actually work: assess the natural lash, choose the shield, place it, apply the lotions, control the timing and remove everything without damaging the lashes.

One thing to keep in mind throughout: every lash lift system has its own formulation and its own timings. The figures in this module are examples published by specific manufacturers, included so you can see how timing decisions are made. They are not a universal recipe. With your own kit, the manufacturer’s instructions always come first.

Module objectives

Assess the natural lash (length, thickness, growth direction and condition) before any product goes on.
Choose the size and shape of the silicone shield for the lash and the result the client wants.
Position the shield and lashes correctly with just enough adhesive.
Apply the perm and setting lotions to the right area, with timings based on the manufacturer’s instructions.
Remove products and shields without spoiling the result or the lash.

Lash lift step by step: what must already be done

A lash lift starts well before you open the lotion. By this point you should have completed the consultation, checked for contraindications and carried out the patch test with the lead time the manufacturer specifies (covered in module 4). Bear in mind, too, that in the European Union thioglycolic acid products for eyelash waving are restricted to professional use and must carry label warnings such as “Contains thioglycolate” and “Follow the instructions” (Regulation (EU) 2015/1190, amending Annex III of Regulation 1223/2009). Rules elsewhere may differ, so check the regulations where you work.

Lay everything out before your client lies down: shields in several sizes, adhesive or fixing balm, lotions from a single system, micro brushes, cotton buds, under-eye pads and a timer. You can find examples in our lamination and lash lift category.

Step 1: assess the natural lash

Every decision you make later depends on this assessment. Look at:

Length, which decides the shield size.
Thickness: Elleebana notes that coarse, thick lashes need longer processing than fine lashes to reach the same curl.
Growth direction: straight, pointing downwards or already slightly curved.
Condition: recent extensions, tints or lifts may mean adjusted timings, according to the manufacturer. Dry, brittle or frizzy lashes are not treated.
Eye shape and space under the brow bone: Lash Jungle suggests assessing this and photographing the eyes straight on, at 45 degrees and from the side.

Record everything on the client card. Elleebana recommends noting eye shape, lash length and any health conditions, and asking returning clients how their last lift held so you can adjust the shield or timing.

Step 2: choose the shield by lash length

The most misunderstood rule of all: a bigger shield does not give more lift. Lashbase puts it plainly: larger shields give a softer, more natural curl, smaller shields a more dramatic one. Lash Jungle agrees that a smaller shield creates a tighter curl.

Checking the size

Brands phrase it differently, but the aim is the same: the lash should rest on the body of the shield without running past it.

Source	Sizing check
Lashbase	Push the lashes onto the shield with a dry wand. If they go past the body onto the flap, size up; if they don’t reach the edge of the body, size down.
Lash Jungle	As a rule of thumb, the shield should cover about two-thirds of the lash length. For hooded or deep-set eyes, monolids or heavier lids, one size larger often works better.
InLei	The client’s lashes should be more than half the length of the curler. Its curlers numbered “1” lift from the root for a more natural curl.

Shield shape

Shape	When Lashbase suggests it
Round	Downward-growing or hard-to-lift lashes; hooded or deep-set eyes. Strong, even curl.
Flat	Naturally lifted lashes or a natural lift with shape and definition.
Teardrop	Bold, upright curl; long lashes. Its tips article advises against it for complex eye shapes.

Step 3: cleanse, protect and place the shield

Cleanse thoroughly. Make-up, oil or foundation residue can affect the lift (Lashbase, Elleebana).
Dry completely. Elleebana points out that its lash glue dissolves in water, so damp lashes won’t stay on the shield.
Isolate the lower lashes with an under-eye pad, which also protects the skin (as InLei describes).
Fix the shield as close to the lash line as possible. Lashbase warns that a gap gives a poor lift and that placing the shield too low kinks the lashes into an “L” curl. You can trim the shield for small eyes; for hooded eyes, gently tape the lid up so you can see the lash line.
Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the shield, section by section.
Comb the lashes up onto the shield individually or in small groups, straight, parallel and not crossing. Whatever is crossed or twisted now will set that way.
Check that no lash is trapped under the shield or stuck to the skin.

Not too much glue, not too little: too little and the lashes slip off the shield; too much and they are “sealed”, so the lotion can’t penetrate (Lashbase and Elleebana both make this point). You only need enough to hold each lash.

Step 4: apply the perm lotion (step 1)

Where it goes

The reducing lotion works where the curl forms: the base of the lash over the curved part of the shield. Never on the tips. Tips are finer than the base and soften much faster, which leads to over-processing (Lash Jungle). Exact guidance varies by brand:

InLei says to apply FORM 1 with a brush about 1.5–2 mm from the root, in a thin, even layer.
Lashbase uses the apex of the shield (its highest point) as the reference: for a soft lift, take the lotion roughly 1 mm below the apex; for a more dramatic curl, 1–2 mm past it, without going too far.

More product does not mean a better result. Lashbase warns that applying from root to tip can over-process and damage the lash. Some systems tell you to cover with cling film to hold in heat; others don’t. Follow your product’s instructions.

Timings by manufacturer and lash type

The table shows timings published by three manufacturers. Notice how different they are. That is exactly why timings never transfer from one brand to another.

System (source)	Fine lashes	Normal	Coarse	Setting (step 2)
InLei FORM 1 (inlei.com)	6–8 min	8–10 min	10–12 min (very thick and strong: 12–14 min)	FIX 2: half the FORM 1 time (InLei blog)
Lashbase Lifted. Original	10–11 min	12–13 min	14–15 min	6–7 / 8 / 9–10 min
Lashbase Lifted. Pro	5 min	5 min	5 min	90 sec – 2 min
Elleebana One Shot (general guide)	Adjust down	About 6 min	Adjust to the lash	About 5 min

Factors that change timing, according to Elleebana and Lashbase: lash thickness, previous chemical treatments, and room temperature and humidity (warmer, more humid conditions speed things up). Lashbase recommends starting at the lower end of the range and reassessing, and never pushing fine lashes to the maximum without reason.

The flex check

Timing charts are a guide, not a rule. Lashbase suggests this check before time is up: gently bend a single lash. If it folds into a “U” with no resistance, it’s ready for the next step. If it bends into a “C” with some resistance, leave the lotion on a little longer and check again every 30 seconds.

Step 5: remove lotion 1 and apply the setting lotion (step 2)

Remove lotion 1 with a dry cotton bud (as InLei instructs), working upwards without moving the lashes on the shield. Remove all of it: any residue keeps processing.
Apply the setting (neutralising) lotion from the same system to the same area, in a thin layer.
Leave it for the full time the manufacturer specifies. Lash Jungle stresses that this step should never be skipped or cut short, because it stops the chemical action and locks in the new shape.
Remove the setting lotion with a dry cotton bud.

If you are also tinting, this is the point many systems specify for it. Module 6 covers it in detail.

Step 6: nourish and remove the shield

If your system includes a third nourishing step, apply it according to the instructions. InLei, for example, says to brush in FILLER 3 and let it absorb; Lashbase says its step 3 can stay on for up to 12 hours.
Release the lashes from the shield with a damp cotton bud, without pulling. InLei says to remove the curlers with a wet cotton bud without touching the lashes.
Remove the shield and under-eye pad, then clean any adhesive left at the lash line with a micro brush from our accessories.
Check symmetry and that all lashes point the same way. Take photos for the client record.

Whatever kit you use, keep all three lotions from the same brand. Lift lotions, setting lotions and nourishing treatments are listed in our glue and liquids category.

Common mistakes

Mistake	Result	How to avoid it
Choosing a big shield “for more lift”	A softer curl than expected	Size is chosen by lash length and style, not intensity.
Shield away from the lash line or too low	Poor lift or an “L” curl	Place it as close to the root as possible.
Too much adhesive	Lotion can’t penetrate; patchy result	A thin layer, just enough to hold.
Crossed or twisted lashes	They set that way	Comb and separate before the lotion.
Lotion on the tips	Over-processed, frizzy ends	Stick to the brand’s application zone.
Using another brand’s timings	Under- or over-processing	Follow your system’s instructions and flex check.
Shortening or skipping the setting step	A curl that drops	Full setting time as per the manufacturer.

If at any point the client reports intense stinging, strong itching, pain or watering that doesn’t settle, stop the treatment, remove the product as the manufacturer directs and advise her to see a healthcare professional.

Module summary

Assessing the lash (length, thickness, direction, condition) determines the shield, application zone and timing.
Small shield = tighter curl; large shield = softer curl. Check the size by combing the lashes onto it.
Shield tight to the lash line, minimal adhesive, lashes straight and separated.
Lotion 1 goes on the base, never the tips; timings depend on the manufacturer and the lash type.
Never skip or shorten the setting step. Use all lotions from one system.

Self-assessment

1. A client wants a “stronger” curl. Do you choose a bigger or smaller shield?

Smaller, as long as her lash length allows it. Small shields give a tighter curl; large ones a softer curl.

2. What happens if the shield is too low or leaves a gap at the lash line?

You get a poor lift, or the lashes kink into an “L” curl. The shield should sit as close to the lash line as possible.

3. Why is the perm lotion kept off the tips?

The tips are finer than the base and soften faster, so they over-process easily.

4. You have brand A’s timing chart but you’re using brand B. Can you use it?

No. Timings depend on the formulation (for normal lashes, InLei gives 8–10 minutes and Lashbase Lifted. Original 12–13 minutes). Always use your product’s own instructions.

5. How do you know the lashes are ready for the setting lotion?

Use the flex check: a lash that folds into a “U” with no resistance is ready; a “C” with resistance needs a little more time, within the manufacturer’s range.

Sources

Note: this online course is for educational and information purposes only and does not replace hands-on, in-person training with a qualified trainer. Always follow each product manufacturer’s instructions.

Buy the course supplies

All the supplies for this course are available at Lash Canarias:

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