Course: Lash lift and brow lamination course from A to Z · Module 3 of 8
You now know what happens inside a lash during a lift. Next comes the lash lift and brow lamination kit itself: what a system contains, which shields are available, how glue differs from balm, what each lotion is for, and which tools and consumables you need at your workstation. You’ll also learn how to read a label and how to store products so they perform as intended.
Module objectives
- Identify the components of a lash lift or brow lamination system.
- Know the types of silicone shields and rods and what each one does.
- Distinguish lash lift glue, lift balm and lash extension adhesive.
- Put together a complete list of tools and consumables.
- Read a product label and store lotions correctly.
What’s in a lash lift and brow lamination kit
Almost every system follows the same numbered structure, even if each brand names the steps differently:
| Step | Purpose | Common names |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Reducing lotion: softens the lash so it takes the shield’s shape | Step 1, Perm, Lift 1, Form 1 |
| 2 | Setting (oxidising) lotion: fixes the new shape | Step 2, Fix, Fix 2, Lock 2 |
| 3 | Nourishing or conditioning step | Step 3, Nutrition, Fill 3, Brow Butter |
| — | Glue or balm to hold the shield and the lashes | Glue, Glue Balm, Fixing Gel |
| — | Silicone shields or rods | Shields, pads, rods |
You can buy complete kits or individual steps – our lamination category has both, including InLei and Iconsign systems. If you work with individual steps, make sure they all belong to the same system: InLei, for one, advises against combining brands because the result can’t be predicted.
Sachets or bottles
Lotions come in single-use or multi-use sachets and in bottles. Each format has its own use-by period once opened, and that’s set by the manufacturer. Some published examples:
- InLei says each sachet in its Lash Filler system gives up to 4 treatments and should be used within a month of opening, taped or folded closed in between.
- For its Brow Bomber lamination line, InLei says to use an opened bottle of Lift 1 within 3 months and Brow Bomber 3 within 9 months.
- Sugarlash Pro advises not keeping its lash lift sachets open for more than an hour, as effectiveness drops and timings become unreliable.
As you can see, these periods vary enormously between brands. Write the opening date on the pack and follow your own product’s guidance.
Lash lotions and brow lotions
Some kits are for lashes and brows; others are specific to one area. Always check what each product is indicated for. InLei states that using its Brow Bomber brow system on lashes is absolutely forbidden because it can cause serious eye damage, and the California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology reminds practitioners never to use hair perm solution on lashes or brows.
Silicone shields and rods
The shield is the mould of the lash lift: the lash ends up with whatever shape it has when it’s fixed onto it. There are two main families:
| Tool | Shape | Typical result |
|---|---|---|
| Shield (pad) | Flexible silicone piece, fairly flat, in several sizes | Direct lift from the root – an “L” shape |
| Rod | Cylindrical piece in silicone or plastic | Mainly curl – a “C” or “D” shape, more natural |
This breakdown comes from Beautiful Brows & Lashes’ guide. Shields are usually sold in sets of several sizes (S, M, L, XL and similar, depending on the manufacturer). According to Flawless Lashes’ guidance published in Cosmetics Business, smaller sizes tend to be recommended for short lashes, M and L are the most common choices for medium to long lashes, and an XL may give too mild a curl. Choosing the exact size by lash length and eye shape is covered step by step in Module 5.
Can shields be reused? That depends on the manufacturer. Flawless Lashes advises against reusing its shields because they can lose their shape, get stained by tint and, once scratched, may not sterilise properly. If your manufacturer does allow reuse, follow its cleaning protocol and throw away any that are misshapen or damaged.
Lash lift glue and balm
You need something that holds the shield on the eyelid and the lashes on the shield. There are two main options:
- Lash lift glue. Several brands describe theirs as water-soluble: Elleebana says its glue dissolves quickly with water, and InLei describes its LamiCa Gel as a water-soluble glue whose residue comes off with a slightly damp applicator or micro brush.
- Glue balm. A balm texture that, according to Salon System’s description, stays pliable so lashes can be repositioned during the treatment, and is removed with water. You’ll find Iconsign’s glue balm and glue in our glue and liquids category.
Don’t confuse either with lash extension adhesive, which is a different kind of product: the review by Masud et al. (2019) notes that extension adhesives are primarily cyanoacrylate-based, whereas lift adhesives are designed to come off easily at the end of the service. Always use the adhesive your lash lift system’s manufacturer specifies.
Nourishing and post-treatment products
Step 3 is a conditioner. InLei’s Fill 3, for example, lists hydrolysed keratin, panthenol and glycerin; for brow lamination, InLei uses a brow “butter” (Brow Bomber 3) that it says not to rinse off. Don’t attribute effects to these products that the manufacturer doesn’t claim, and remember that their job isn’t to set the curl but to condition the hair after the chemical process.
Workstation tools and consumables
| Item | What it’s for |
|---|---|
| Lash lift tool or Y-comb | Separating, combing and placing lashes onto the shield |
| Micro brushes | Applying lotions precisely and removing residue |
| Disposable mascara wands (spoolies) | Brushing lashes and brows before and after |
| Under-eye pads or tape | Separating and protecting the lower lashes |
| Cling film | Covering lotions during processing, if the manufacturer says so |
| Gloves | Required under the EU conditions of use for these products |
| Sterile water or saline | Emergency eye flushing |
| Cotton buds and pads | Cleansing and product removal |
| Timer | Keeping timings to the minute |
| Couch, pillow and good lighting | Client comfort and visibility |
Most of these consumables – micro brushes, disposable wands, hydrogel pads, lash lift tape and a U-shaped pillow – are in our accessories category.
On gloves: Annex III of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, in the thioglycolic acid entry for eyelash waving products, lists “wear suitable gloves” as a condition of use. On sterile water or saline, the California Board recommends always having it to hand in case the client’s eyes need flushing. Module 4 covers this in detail.
Choosing, checking and storing your kit
- Check the indication. Lashes, brows or both? Never use a product outside what it’s indicated for.
- Read the label. In the EU, thioglycolate lash lotions must state “For professional use only”, “Contains thioglycolate” and “Follow the instructions”. If key information or instructions in your language are missing, ask your supplier.
- Check expiry and the period after opening. Write the opening date on the pack.
- Don’t mix systems. Steps 1, 2 and 3 from the same manufacturer.
- Store as directed. Packs tightly closed and out of children’s reach; some manufacturers also ask you to protect them from light and heat.
- Keep the instructions handy. Store the leaflet (and the safety data sheet, if the manufacturer provides one) with the kit.
- Set up before you start. Everything within reach, so you’re never searching for something while a lotion is processing.
Common mistakes
- Combining steps from different brands because “they do the same thing”.
- Using brow products on lashes, or hair products on either.
- Using extension adhesive instead of the specified lift adhesive.
- Carrying on with opened sachets past the manufacturer’s limit.
- Reusing warped or stained shields. They change the result and compromise hygiene.
- Not having saline or sterile water ready before opening the lotions.
Module summary
- A lash lift system has a reducing lotion, a setting lotion, usually a conditioning step, an adhesive and shields.
- Shields lift from the root; rods give a C or D curl.
- Lift adhesive (glue or balm) is different from extension adhesive and usually comes off with water.
- Gloves, sterile water or saline and a timer are part of the basic kit.
- Use-by periods after opening and storage conditions are set by each manufacturer.
Self-assessment
1. How does the result differ between a shield and a rod?
A shield lifts the lash directly from the root (an “L” shape); a rod mainly produces curl (a “C” or “D” shape).
2. What advantage do manufacturers describe for glue balm?
It stays pliable during the treatment, so lashes can be repositioned, and it comes off with water.
3. Why are gloves not optional with a thioglycolate lash lift lotion?
Because Annex III of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 lists “wear suitable gloves” among the conditions of use for these products.
4. You have a lotion 1 sachet that was opened two months ago. What do you do?
Check the manufacturer’s period after opening. If it’s been exceeded (InLei, for example, says one month), throw it away – its strength is no longer reliable.
Sources
- InLei – Lash Filler F1, F2, F3
- InLei – Brow Bomber
- Sugarlash Pro – Lift or Lam: Get to know the solutions
- Beautiful Brows & Lashes – Lash Shields vs. Lash Rods
- Cosmetics Business – How to choose the right lash shield size
- Elleebana – Lash Lift Glue
- Browstar Cosmetics – InLei LamiCa Gel
- Salon System – Lash & Brow Lift Glue Balm
- Masud M et al. Eyelid Cosmetic Enhancements and Their Associated Ocular Adverse Effects, 2019
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2015/1190 (EUR-Lex)
- California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology – Industry Bulletin: Lash and Brow Perming
Note: this module is for information only and does not replace hands-on training with a qualified trainer. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for each product.
Buy the course supplies
All the supplies for this course are available at Lash Canarias:
- InLei – Lash Lifting Kit
- Lash Lift Kit
- Lash & Brow Lift Kit
- InLei – Brow Lamination Solutions
- Step1 Perm Iconsign
- Step2 Fixation Iconsign
- Step3 Nutrition Iconsign
- Glue Balm Iconsign
- Microbrushes 100
- Disposable Brush For Lashes and Eyebrows
- Under Eye Gel Patches
- Lash Shampo
